How to Lay Herringbone LVT Glue-Down Flooring 

Installation with Self-Adhesive Underlay

This installation method involves laying self-adhesive underlay over your subfloor and securing your subfloor to the adhesive surface.  

1. Start by finding the centre of your room from the perspective of your starting wall. Draw a chalk line straight across the floor, making sure it’s perpendicular to the starting wall. This will be your main guide for laying your herringbone floor. 

2. Lay out two to three rows of your tiles in the herringbone pattern, making sure all corners form perfect 90° angles. Use tape to hold the tiles in place so they don’t move. 

3. Place this assembled section against your starting wall, aligning the points with your centreline (this should look like the image above). Double-check that your corners are still 90° and that the distance to the starting wall is even all the way across the room. 

4. Prepare your adhesive according to the manufacturer’s instructions, following the recommended quantity, waiting time and setting time. Use a notched trowel to spread the adhesive evenly across a section of the floor wide enough for two or three strips (the dark tiles in the image) 

5. Gently place your pre-assembled strips into the adhesive and roll them immediately to secure them into place. Make sure you’re working within the adhesive’s recommended open time. Continue the process, moving outwards from your starting strip on both sides. Keep checking that all your corners are still exactly 90° as you go. 

6. Once your layout is holding steady, remove the taped-together strips and continue fitting the rest of the floor tightly against your starting wall until your beautiful herringbone floor is complete!

1. Begin by aligning your tiles as shown in the guide image, making sure there are no gaps or overlaps between pieces. Secure them tightly together with tape so they stay in place. Remember, herringbone flooring relies on accuracy. Even the tiniest gap will repeat and grow as you continue laying the floor, so check every join carefully. 

2. Cut along the red guide line (shown in the image above) to create your starter triangle. Keep the remaining tiles below the cut, as you’ll use these for the final row later on. Every starter triangle should be the same — three tiles on the left and two on the right. Don’t stray from this pattern or you’ll run into problems later! 

3. Cut your self-adhesive underlay to size using a utility knife. Lay it across the width of the room with the protective film facing upward. Leave an expansion gap between the underlay and the wall (see the note on expansion gaps in the box above), then tape the joins (using underlay tape) to stop the strips from moving while you work. 

4. Use a marker to draw a centreline straight down the protective film — this line usually runs exactly through the middle of the room. Note, this is not the same as the ‘installation line’ in Step 8. Mark the same point on the wall with a small piece of tape (labelled ‘C’ in the image above) to make sure you always know where your centreline is. Add two more marks, each 5.3cm away from ‘C’, one on the left and one on the right (see the image above). These will help you position your first triangle perfectly. 

5. To find out how many triangles you’ll need, take the full width of your installation area and divide it by 106cm, which is the longest side of the triangle. 

6. Identify the installation line on your first triangle (shown in the image above). This is the centre of the herringbone pattern (not the very tip). 

7. Position the first triangle so its installation line aligns exactly with the centreline of your room, using your ‘C’ marker as a guide.  

8. Gently peel back the protective film from the underlay along the centreline and make a small cut to expose the adhesive. Peel back just enough film to place your first triangle, then press it carefully into position on the adhesive layer, making sure the installation line aligns with your centreline.  

9. Repeat the same process for the triangles on the left and right sides, keeping everything perfectly aligned. Replace the protective film over exposed areas to protect the adhesive from dust. Don’t walk or kneel on any uncovered adhesive — this can affect its grip and the final finish.  

10. Continue filling in both sides of the centreline, trimming the last triangles neatly to fit using a utility knife. Once the first section is secure, pull the film back a little further and start laying the tiles one strip at a time. Keep each piece tight and straight — even a small misalignment here could affect the overall result.   

11. Keep the centreline visible as you go and check that your layout remains straight across the room. You can adjust tiles within 10 minutes if needed, but try not to reposition them more than twice to avoid weakening the adhesive.  

12. Once you’re close to finishing the room, wait at least 30 minutes before walking or kneeling on the floor to fit the final tiles. When you reach the final strip, use the offcuts from your first triangles to fill in the last gaps neatly. 

13. We know it’s tempting to start using your new floor straight away, but it’s important to allow the adhesive to dry for 24 hours before placing furniture or cleaning your floor!